eclectictraveller.com

If you’re looking for a serviced apartment in London these people would be worth a look.

www.findalondonapartment.com

Are you looking for a serviced apartment or an apartment hotel in London? Chances are you’re worn out – it’s a tiring, time-consuming task. If you’d like someone else to do all the legwork contact Sloane Apartments. They used to be in the apartment rental business but since they retired they help people like you connect with great little places to stay. Give them a try.

Eclectic Traveller has a website too you know - www.eclectictraveller.co.uk. It’s worth a look, more detail than you’ll find here with plenty of information about luxury boutique hotels, ski chalets and fabulous spas.

As everyone knows London’s expensive, possibly the most expensive city on earth right now thanks to our pumped-up pound. So it makes sense to cut corners where you can and where better to start than a free walking tour of London.

Be aware that I haven’t tried one myself but the website and the company look reputable so give it a try the next time you visit London. Remember to check out Parkes Hotel if you’re looking for a luxury boutique hotel in London

Parkes won best luxury hotel in London and has an unbeatable selection of luxury suites.

I don’t usually write about spas but decided to make an exception since one of our neighbours in Surrey - Grayshott Spa. – seems to have justified the hype in calling itself  “England’s leading ‘health’ spa” by winning “Best UK Spa” at the first ever Tatler Spa Awards and following this up by coming in at Number 7 in Conde Nast’s destination spa awards.

According to Grayshott the spa provides refuge for those seeking relaxation and rejuvenation in its tranquil location deep in the English countryside. They have all the ‘health farm’ fundamentals: excellent personal consultations, delicious guilt-free healthy cuisine, goal-focused packages (weight loss, detox, de-stress and
fitness), highly trained spa therapists and unbeatable attention to detail.

Grayshott prides itself on being a tranquil and elegant retreat where guests can wander around in their robes from dawn until dusk. Sounds ideal Give them a try when your mind turns to weight loss post Xmas.

Jonathan Trigell wrote this amazing piece in the Daily Telegraph last weekend. It’s a must read if you’re visiting Chamonix this season. And don’t forget, if you’re looking for a beautiful chalet in an ideal location for the Chamonix skiiing try http://www.mountainsafari.co.uk.

Chamonix was “discovered” by the English in 1741, the Hotel d’Angleterre, the first in the valley, was built in 1770, and the town held the inaugural Winter Olympics in 1924. But it was Mont Blanc and the fiercely steep and jagged Chamonix Aiguilles – needles – which made it a Mecca for the British, before the bars and clubs put it firmly on the party map. The skiing in Chamonix is still tattooed, in common consciousness, with the words ’strictly for the hard core’: fat skis; Forcefield body armour; full-face helmets. It’s a place where looking like you mean business is half the battle.

So here’s a clue right away on how to blend seamlessly into the death-sport capital of the world, call it “Cham”; all the locals, French and Anglais, do. Chamonix is the 28km valley and the commune, the town is affectionately dubbed Cham. If you must use its full name, remember that it used to be spelt Chamouni; therefore the “x” at the end is silent. Only Parisians call it Chamonix, pronounced like Asterix, and they also wear jeans & gaiters … and snowblade.

Now, after six selfless years of investigation in the valley, I’m finally prepared to share my findings. Welcome to the fruits of my toil: Cham’s best-loved treasures.

Best piste

The black home run down from Brevent is a bit like a snowy “running of the bulls” last thing in the day. But if you get up there early in the morning, it can be an absolute dream of freshly-bashed corduroy and sharp banked turns. Be wary of half-term holiday weeks, however, when a queue for the lift at the bottom might make this a less attractive option.

Best off-piste

Chamonix is justifiably renowned for its freeride terrain. There are places like the Pas de Chevre, Glacier Rond and the Col du Plan that roll off the tongues of those who have never even visited. Then there are stashes which, if I gave them away here, would see me found dead in a snow drift as a warning to others. But a classic not often skied these days is skier’s left from the Aiguille de Midi’s mid station down to town. A beautiful route through thin trees, which finishes just a short hop from the foot of the lift; so when the snow’s right it can be skied all day with fresh lines every time. To make the most of Chamonix safely, you need a guide though; the best I’ve come across is Guy from Dream Guides.

In case of bad weather

If it’s snowing hard, then off-piste aficionados with a reasonable sense of direction will enjoy the locally dubbed “Magic Forest” by the Plan Roujon chair lift at Grands Montets. Les Houches is the best option for some generally tree lined runs in the Valley. But, new for this winter, you can spend as many days as you like through the Mont Blanc Tunnel in Courmayeur in Italy. Just the other side of Europe’s largest natural border, the weather is often entirely different, so get reception to check the webcams on chamonet.com.

Best mountain restaurant

Most of the mountain restaurants are owned by the lift company, and it has to be said that they are not a reason to come to Chamonix in themselves. However, down in Les Houches – where the world cup downhill is held — they are still independent and there are some real gems: La Vieille Luge and Le Cha are both worthy of mention, but the real winner is the Argentine run La Tanière; sexy waitresses in leather aprons, South American wine and chunky tender Argentinean steaks. It’s well hidden, below the side of the Plan du Croz piste, but also very small, so booking is always sensible and often imperative. (+ 33 (0) 450934257)

Snack food

Beluga on Av Ravanel le Rouge is a local legend, with its ingenious culinary combinations in big toasted cobs. Ask for a free sticker, put it on your planks and look like a Chamoniard, or at least reduce the chances of getting your kit pinched. As a word to the wise, still buy a ski lock, unfortunately lots of equipment does get stolen. Be particularly cautious when in a restaurant next to a down-lift, as these make for a very fast getaway. And don’t leave your board on a balcony, even several floors up; Cham is world renowned for its climbers.

Evening meal

On a low budget, I recommend Le Caveau, on Rue Dr Paccard, through a small door that descends underground into an ancient cattle cellar — great value. If you want something really classy, try Le Panier des Quatre Saisons (+33 (0)4 5053 9877). It’s in the back of a shopping centre, unremarkable looking but with amazing food. For my money, and many agree with me, it’s better than the two Michelin starred Albert 1er, and without the fuss.

Vin chaud

There’s nothing by way of nourishment on the Vallorcine side of the Balme ski area. So an enterprising and chatty fellow built a little log hut by the side of the long forest trail to the bottom. The perfect spot for that end of the day pick-me-up.

Apres Ski

Monkey Bar, tucked away in Chamonix Sud, is the place to be these days. The combination of The Soul Rats playing live and a generous happy hour will rapidly transform tired ski boots into dancing shoes.

Evening Drinks

Chambre Neuf, Av Michel Croz, is Swedish owned and run, the eye-candy alone should be sufficient to tempt you in and the two-for-one cocktails before 10pm will keep you there. Or, if you prefer your drinking cool and discreet, try Le Derapage, down some stone steps behind Mojo’s sandwich café.

Late Night Carnage

If you’re still looking for thrills after the bars kick out at 1.30am then dark and dingy is the way forward. Hard to find, but worth the hunt, is the Cantina Club, just off Rue Joseph Vallot. The clientele are French but friendly, and the music goes on long into the night. Too long into the night.

Hotel

Le Vert, sees itself as the riders’ hangout, and I tend to agree: stylish décor, street-chic staff, pro shop and funky bar, where lots of Cham’s sponsored skiers and cool-kids come to chill. The Vert crew even run their own training camps.

Unusual activity

Winter paint ball. The soft liquid centres solidify in the cold and those babies sting so much you’ll think you’ve inadvertently stumbled on to the Russian front. A snow covered forest and a fresher fear of getting shot definitely adds to the atmosphere of one of the world’s fastest growing action sports.

Week to visit

Every year around the middle of March — this year it will fall on the 19th — The Boss des Bosses, the longest running season workers’ competition in the Alps, is held up at Grands Montets. Its roots go back to a gauntlet — doubtless luminous — flung at a Val d’Isere fop who impudently suggested that Val’s skiers were better than Chamonix’s. A team bumps and jumps competition settled the matter in Chamonix’s favour — “bosses” being French for bumps. Seventeen years later, the competition is still moving from strength to strength. Most of those original competitors — once hard-drinking, powder-skiing, all-in-one wearing, bums for life — are likely living in suburbia, worrying about house prices and saving money for their off-springs’ university fees, but the inter resort rivalry lives on. Teams and coach loads of supporters arrive for the day from Val d’Isere, Meribel, Courchevel, Zermatt and Val Thorens for what is unequivocally the best on-slope party of the winter.

If you’re looking for a place to learn how to ski or a resort where you can take it easy try one of these resorts. I originally saw these recommendations in a piece in the Daily Telegraph .

Les Arcs, France

Les Arcs has nursery slopes directly above each of the resort’s main villages, of which Arc 1800 has the most variety. It also has a free beginner’s lift, plus a good range of more advanced slopes as you progress. The best ski school is the award winning Brit-run New Generation in Vallandry — their friendly instructors will instil confidence in the most timid of beginners.

Cortina, ItalyIt won’t be the skiing but the views over the Dolomites that take your breath away in Cortina, one of the world’s loveliest ski resorts. It also has some superbly groomed beginner slopes in the Socrapes area, with instructors who are especially good with kids. And, when you need to give your legs a break, there’s no better place to sit in the sun and people watch.

Lech, AustriaLech is the classic alpine resort – picturesque village, fine hotels and well-regarded ski schools with good, English-speaking instructors. There’s also plenty of decent runs for better skiers so it’s a fine option for mixed-ability groups.

Tignes, FranceFor female skiers, there are several advantages to taking a women-only course — no braying machos, and the fact that female physiognomy means that women ski slightly differently to men. Ski and boot manufacturers now recognise this in their gear design, so why not take a course that allows you to make the most of it? Tignes is high and snowsure and has a very good range of nursery,
intermediate and expert slopes, accommodation, non-skiing activities and après-ski. It also has a well-established women’s-only course run by Skiworld.

Wengen, Switzerland

Tucked beneath the mighty north face of the Eiger, Wengen boasts stupendous mountain scenery and is particularly good for families, with the ski school regularly receiving rave reports. There are plenty of options if skiing turns out not to appeal, from tobogganing to taking the Europe’s highest funicular railway up the lower slopes of the Eiger.

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They take their bread seriously in Paris so it’ll come as no surprise to learn that every March there’s a contest to find the  best baguette in Paris - Concours pour la Meilleure Baguette de Paris.

This year the proud winner was Arnaud Delmontel - apparently it took a while for him to accept the good news, when he first heard the announcement he thought it was a prank. But it was true and he can look forward to a bumper year. In the same way movie producers expect a boost in ticket sales following a win at the Oscars Arnaud is highly likely to see lots of new customers lining up outside his boulangerie.

The icing on the cake, the creamy butter on his baguette is that the winner gets to provide bread to the President at the Elysees Palace for a whole year.

Try one yourself, see if you can taste the difference. Monsieur Delmontel owns two boulangeries one on rue des Martyrs the other on rue Damrémont, both in the 18th arrondissement.

Bonne Baguette!

The Daily Telegraph recently ran a piece on luxury hotels in Dublin - here’s some of the highlights:

 The Dylan. One of the best boutique hotels in Dublin - or anywhere else for that matter.

15 minutes from St Stephen’s Green, the hotel is in a quiet and leafy affluent street with good restaurants nearby.

Feels like an exclusive nightclub, the  interior design is gaudy, but this boutique hotel is anything but boring: crimson carpets, wacky furniture and zany lights.

Each of the 44 bedrooms is individually designed, they all come with an iPod loaded with funky music, plasma TV and powerful hairdryer. The bathrooms are small (some are shower only) and are stocked with Etro products.

Excellent service, attentive and unobtrusive - one’s entire stay feels tailor-made.

Contact: 00353 1 600 3000; www.dylan.ie. Doubles from £275.

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The Fitzwilliam Hotel

Overlooking St Stephen’s Green from the west, with Grafton Street almost on its doorstep.

Conran Designed 10 years old with a room refurbishment underway.  A lime green and purple colour scheme lend it a fresh and interesting look.

The lobby’s bold colour scheme is being introduced across all 130 or so rooms. The bathrooms are lovely, with stylish mosaics. The smallest (”Executive”) rooms are compact  and many lack a decent view. The fifth-floor ‘Superior” rooms are divine - a good size and great views over the park.

Contact 00353 1 478 7000; www.fitzwilliamhotel.com. Doubles from £259.

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Brownes is a quiet townhouse on the north side of St Stephen’s Green.

Formerly a society residence and then a gentlemen’s club, this traditional Dublin townhouse is stunning from the outside and quiet and refined within. Wooden floors, green walls and grandfather chair add a sense of charming creakiness to the lobby, and the reception, with a fireplace and huge windows looking over the green, is intimate and restful. It may seem a little worn but that is part of its appeal. Perfect for those who want to feel as if they are in old-world Dublin. And for Irish literary enthusiasts, Samuel Beckett was once a guest.

The 11 rooms are small and have low ceilings, but the simple yet tasteful furnishings make them seem homely.

Contact: 00353 1 638 3939; www.brownesdublin.com. Doubles from £175.

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Aer Lingus (0870 8765000; www.aerlingus.com) flies several times a day from Heathrow to Dublin. The prices are competitive with Ryanair, but have the advantage of seat allocation. Ryanair (0871 246 0000; www.ryanair.com) has multiple daily flights to Dublin from Gatwick, Stansted and Luton. For further information on Dublin and the rest of Ireland visit www.discoverireland.com or call 0800 039 7000.

Dublin has a fine selection of luxury boutique hotels, great place to stay , good location and attentive staff. Choose from any of the hotels on the list drawn up by Conde Nast, they are some of the best hotels in Dublin.

 THE DYLAN Eastmoreland Place, Dublin 4 (00 353 1 660 3000; fax: 660 3005, www.dylan.ie). From the outside, this hotel looks as respectable as its surroundings in Dublin’s affluent inner suburbs. It consists of two buildings joined together: a Victorian red-brick with arches and Dutch gables, and a newly constructed grey-stone wing which matches the proportions of the older building but with none of the frills. Inside, things take a sudden turn for the flamboyant. Red, midnight-blue and white-and-silver walls are hung with baroque mirrors and abstract metal sculptures, and the lift is lined with studded leather. In the Library, all the books have been given new bindings to match the striking green-and-grey colour scheme, while the French and Modern Irish restaurant, Still, is a sea of cream leather lit by rows of miniature chandeliers. The 44 rooms and suites all have flat-screen TVs, Wi-Fi, iPod docks and marble bathrooms with under-floor heating. Each is individually decorated: some are boldly contemporary. The buzzy, low-lit bar is a popular spot with Dublin’s media crowd. The Dylan was featured in The Hot List 2007. ££

NUMBER 31
31 Leeson Close, Dublin 2 (00 353 1 676 5011; fax: 676 2929; www.number31.ie). A modernist 21-room gem, situated in a mews house designed by Irish architect Sam Stephenson. Service is warm and personal, you are treated as a house guest. There isn’t a restaurant, but delicious breakfasts (mushroom frittata, potato cakes, eggs benedict) are served at communal tables or in your room. ££

THE CLARENCE
6-8 Wellington Quay, Dublin 2 (00 353 1 407 0800; fax 407 0820; www.theclarence.ie). A 19th-century riverside hotel, renovated and reopened in 1996 by U2’s Bono and The Edge with an arts-and-crafts interior. The double-height Tea Room is Dublin’s most exciting dining place and serves excellent Modern European cuisine. The penthouse, with its cream-leather furniture and outdoor hot tub, is possibly the most indulgent hotel room in Dublin. Only at The Clarence will you find such an unpretentious mix of locals, visitors and rock stars. ££

THE FITZWILLIAM
St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2 (00 353 1 478 7000; fax: 478 7878; www.fitzwilliamhotel.com). A sleek Conran hotel with a Michelin-starred restaurant, large roof terrace and a fabulous location just a few paces from the shopping hub of Grafton Street, the wonderful terraces of Georgian Dublin, and the bar-club complex that centres on The Pod. ££

THE MERRION
Upper Merrion Street, Dublin 2 (00 353 1 603 0600; fax: 603 0700; www.merrionhotel.com). Four converted Georgian terraces furnished in period style, plus a large modern wing with bedrooms and a spa. The service is exemplary; the staff take pains to ensure that guests are comfortable. There’s the two-Michelin-starred Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud for contemporary French cuisine and the Cellar Restaurant for modern European. The x factor? The collection of Irish paintings and the richly detailed public rooms, many of which are works of art in themselves. ££££

THE MORGAN
10 Fleet Street, Temple Bar, Dublin 2 (00 353 1 643 7000; fax 643 7060; www.themorgan.com). This Anouska Hempel-inspired hotel is in an enticingly hip area and boasts stylish, minimalist rooms equipped with Molton Brown toiletries. It is also within walking distance of Trinity College and Christchurch Cathedral. ££

THE MORRISON
Ormond Quay, Dublin 1 (00 353 1 887 2400; fax: 878 3185; www.morrisonhotel.ie). This designer hotel, located in a former warehouse, has interiors by John Rocha. The neutral decor is accented with polished bronze and splashes of red. There are 138 rooms, including 12 suites and six studios. The food is modern European cuisine served in the minimalist Halo restaurant. In a city full of Victorian and Georgian hotels, the Morrison is a beacon of contemporary design. £££

THE SHELBOURNE
27 St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2 (00 353 1 661 6006; fax: 663 4500; www.Marriott.co.uk). Built in 1824, Dublin’s grande dame hotel reopened in the spring 2007 after an extensive two-year renovation. The landmark hotel, where the Irish Constitution was drafted in 1922, has kept much of its historic charm. You can still take tea and spot famous faces in the plush Lord Mayor’s Lounge or enjoy a Guinness in the classic Horseshoe Bar. New additions include a modern steak and seafood restaurant, The Saddle Room with dark oak walls and rich splashes of gold, and the Number 27 bar. A spa is due to open in 2008. The 265 rooms feature a Georgian palette of soft yellows and pinks, cherrywood furnishings and marble bathrooms. ££

THE WESTIN DUBLIN
College Green, Dublin 2 (00 353 1 645 1000; fax: 645 1234; www.westin.com/dublin). This 163-room hotel comprises one 19th-century bank and half of another converted into a luxury hotel that attracts both business and leisure travellers. The location is unbeatable, next to Trinity College and close to the shops on Grafton Street and the financial centre across the river. The hotel suffers a little from corporate blandness: the decor tends to be rather generic and the bedrooms lack individuality. ££