eclectictraveller.com

Jonathan Trigell wrote this amazing piece in the Daily Telegraph last weekend. It’s a must read if you’re visiting Chamonix this season. And don’t forget, if you’re looking for a beautiful chalet in an ideal location for the Chamonix skiiing try http://www.mountainsafari.co.uk.

Chamonix was “discovered” by the English in 1741, the Hotel d’Angleterre, the first in the valley, was built in 1770, and the town held the inaugural Winter Olympics in 1924. But it was Mont Blanc and the fiercely steep and jagged Chamonix Aiguilles – needles – which made it a Mecca for the British, before the bars and clubs put it firmly on the party map. The skiing in Chamonix is still tattooed, in common consciousness, with the words ’strictly for the hard core’: fat skis; Forcefield body armour; full-face helmets. It’s a place where looking like you mean business is half the battle.

So here’s a clue right away on how to blend seamlessly into the death-sport capital of the world, call it “Cham”; all the locals, French and Anglais, do. Chamonix is the 28km valley and the commune, the town is affectionately dubbed Cham. If you must use its full name, remember that it used to be spelt Chamouni; therefore the “x” at the end is silent. Only Parisians call it Chamonix, pronounced like Asterix, and they also wear jeans & gaiters … and snowblade.

Now, after six selfless years of investigation in the valley, I’m finally prepared to share my findings. Welcome to the fruits of my toil: Cham’s best-loved treasures.

Best piste

The black home run down from Brevent is a bit like a snowy “running of the bulls” last thing in the day. But if you get up there early in the morning, it can be an absolute dream of freshly-bashed corduroy and sharp banked turns. Be wary of half-term holiday weeks, however, when a queue for the lift at the bottom might make this a less attractive option.

Best off-piste

Chamonix is justifiably renowned for its freeride terrain. There are places like the Pas de Chevre, Glacier Rond and the Col du Plan that roll off the tongues of those who have never even visited. Then there are stashes which, if I gave them away here, would see me found dead in a snow drift as a warning to others. But a classic not often skied these days is skier’s left from the Aiguille de Midi’s mid station down to town. A beautiful route through thin trees, which finishes just a short hop from the foot of the lift; so when the snow’s right it can be skied all day with fresh lines every time. To make the most of Chamonix safely, you need a guide though; the best I’ve come across is Guy from Dream Guides.

In case of bad weather

If it’s snowing hard, then off-piste aficionados with a reasonable sense of direction will enjoy the locally dubbed “Magic Forest” by the Plan Roujon chair lift at Grands Montets. Les Houches is the best option for some generally tree lined runs in the Valley. But, new for this winter, you can spend as many days as you like through the Mont Blanc Tunnel in Courmayeur in Italy. Just the other side of Europe’s largest natural border, the weather is often entirely different, so get reception to check the webcams on chamonet.com.

Best mountain restaurant

Most of the mountain restaurants are owned by the lift company, and it has to be said that they are not a reason to come to Chamonix in themselves. However, down in Les Houches – where the world cup downhill is held — they are still independent and there are some real gems: La Vieille Luge and Le Cha are both worthy of mention, but the real winner is the Argentine run La Tanière; sexy waitresses in leather aprons, South American wine and chunky tender Argentinean steaks. It’s well hidden, below the side of the Plan du Croz piste, but also very small, so booking is always sensible and often imperative. (+ 33 (0) 450934257)

Snack food

Beluga on Av Ravanel le Rouge is a local legend, with its ingenious culinary combinations in big toasted cobs. Ask for a free sticker, put it on your planks and look like a Chamoniard, or at least reduce the chances of getting your kit pinched. As a word to the wise, still buy a ski lock, unfortunately lots of equipment does get stolen. Be particularly cautious when in a restaurant next to a down-lift, as these make for a very fast getaway. And don’t leave your board on a balcony, even several floors up; Cham is world renowned for its climbers.

Evening meal

On a low budget, I recommend Le Caveau, on Rue Dr Paccard, through a small door that descends underground into an ancient cattle cellar — great value. If you want something really classy, try Le Panier des Quatre Saisons (+33 (0)4 5053 9877). It’s in the back of a shopping centre, unremarkable looking but with amazing food. For my money, and many agree with me, it’s better than the two Michelin starred Albert 1er, and without the fuss.

Vin chaud

There’s nothing by way of nourishment on the Vallorcine side of the Balme ski area. So an enterprising and chatty fellow built a little log hut by the side of the long forest trail to the bottom. The perfect spot for that end of the day pick-me-up.

Apres Ski

Monkey Bar, tucked away in Chamonix Sud, is the place to be these days. The combination of The Soul Rats playing live and a generous happy hour will rapidly transform tired ski boots into dancing shoes.

Evening Drinks

Chambre Neuf, Av Michel Croz, is Swedish owned and run, the eye-candy alone should be sufficient to tempt you in and the two-for-one cocktails before 10pm will keep you there. Or, if you prefer your drinking cool and discreet, try Le Derapage, down some stone steps behind Mojo’s sandwich café.

Late Night Carnage

If you’re still looking for thrills after the bars kick out at 1.30am then dark and dingy is the way forward. Hard to find, but worth the hunt, is the Cantina Club, just off Rue Joseph Vallot. The clientele are French but friendly, and the music goes on long into the night. Too long into the night.

Hotel

Le Vert, sees itself as the riders’ hangout, and I tend to agree: stylish décor, street-chic staff, pro shop and funky bar, where lots of Cham’s sponsored skiers and cool-kids come to chill. The Vert crew even run their own training camps.

Unusual activity

Winter paint ball. The soft liquid centres solidify in the cold and those babies sting so much you’ll think you’ve inadvertently stumbled on to the Russian front. A snow covered forest and a fresher fear of getting shot definitely adds to the atmosphere of one of the world’s fastest growing action sports.

Week to visit

Every year around the middle of March — this year it will fall on the 19th — The Boss des Bosses, the longest running season workers’ competition in the Alps, is held up at Grands Montets. Its roots go back to a gauntlet — doubtless luminous — flung at a Val d’Isere fop who impudently suggested that Val’s skiers were better than Chamonix’s. A team bumps and jumps competition settled the matter in Chamonix’s favour — “bosses” being French for bumps. Seventeen years later, the competition is still moving from strength to strength. Most of those original competitors — once hard-drinking, powder-skiing, all-in-one wearing, bums for life — are likely living in suburbia, worrying about house prices and saving money for their off-springs’ university fees, but the inter resort rivalry lives on. Teams and coach loads of supporters arrive for the day from Val d’Isere, Meribel, Courchevel, Zermatt and Val Thorens for what is unequivocally the best on-slope party of the winter.

If you’re looking for a place to learn how to ski or a resort where you can take it easy try one of these resorts. I originally saw these recommendations in a piece in the Daily Telegraph .

Les Arcs, France

Les Arcs has nursery slopes directly above each of the resort’s main villages, of which Arc 1800 has the most variety. It also has a free beginner’s lift, plus a good range of more advanced slopes as you progress. The best ski school is the award winning Brit-run New Generation in Vallandry — their friendly instructors will instil confidence in the most timid of beginners.

Cortina, ItalyIt won’t be the skiing but the views over the Dolomites that take your breath away in Cortina, one of the world’s loveliest ski resorts. It also has some superbly groomed beginner slopes in the Socrapes area, with instructors who are especially good with kids. And, when you need to give your legs a break, there’s no better place to sit in the sun and people watch.

Lech, AustriaLech is the classic alpine resort – picturesque village, fine hotels and well-regarded ski schools with good, English-speaking instructors. There’s also plenty of decent runs for better skiers so it’s a fine option for mixed-ability groups.

Tignes, FranceFor female skiers, there are several advantages to taking a women-only course — no braying machos, and the fact that female physiognomy means that women ski slightly differently to men. Ski and boot manufacturers now recognise this in their gear design, so why not take a course that allows you to make the most of it? Tignes is high and snowsure and has a very good range of nursery,
intermediate and expert slopes, accommodation, non-skiing activities and après-ski. It also has a well-established women’s-only course run by Skiworld.

Wengen, Switzerland

Tucked beneath the mighty north face of the Eiger, Wengen boasts stupendous mountain scenery and is particularly good for families, with the ski school regularly receiving rave reports. There are plenty of options if skiing turns out not to appeal, from tobogganing to taking the Europe’s highest funicular railway up the lower slopes of the Eiger.

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Flaine is also popular with the Independent

Modernist architectural relic meets holiday camp: compact Flaine is filled with children frolicking at the foot of the slopes. Though small, the resort has the requisite pool, ice-rink, bowling lanes, cinema and climbing wall, plus a gallery and library to amuse parents. The resort’s P’tit Loups crèche (00 33 4 50 90 87 82) takes children from six months, and there are two ski kindergartens.

But if you’re prepared to trade vin chaud and raclatte for valpolicello and pasta then maybe Italy’s Val Gardena in  the place for you

Children are made to feel like stars in the sun-dappled Dolomites, where skiing is viewed as a family activity to be enjoyed at a leisurely pace. Prices compare favourably to the Alps; children ski and stay free during Superkids weeks, from 15 March 2008. With low-cost flights available to Verona, Bergamo and Innsbruck, and easy transfers from each, Val Gardena is a good destination for families wishing to go it alone. Child care and ski school is available

According to the Guardian it’s Flaine in France. Here’s the piece:
Bauhaus architect Marcel Breuer’s design for the resort was based on “function and integration”, and one of the elements of that design was to make a safe environment for children. With cars stopped at the edge of the village, older kids can run about the central square, dotted with art installations, nip off to get a pizza on their own and, in most of the hotels and apartment blocks, find games rooms etc to entertain themselves.

Flaine has plenty of creches and kids’ clubs too. Ecole du Ski Française is more child-friendly here than in some of its neighbours; and there is a big terrain park with its own lift and a gentle line of jumps where young kids will have a ball. And what’s more, the transfer from Geneva takes less than an hour, a real grief-saver.

So while you might find more action in Val D’Isere and Courcheval if you’re looking for a great place for the kids to ski try Flaine.

Chamonix is rightly famous for its skiing but where to stay - as usual there is a bewildering range of choice. If you’re looking for some of the best chalets in Chamonix then you might try Chalet 1802

Nice website with endless compliments from satisfied customers. If you can’t find what you’re looking for then take a look in  Verbier   or Val Disere

Think of YSE as in the top rank of mid-range chalet operators. It’s not as posh as Descent or Scott Dunn: it’s more on a par with VIP, with less emphasis on interior design, and more emphasis on the nosh.

Life is busy enough without having to deal with queues and traffic jams on the mountains. Here are four of the best spots in Europe to avoid the ski crowds.  In fact  4 of the best resorts in Europe full stop, and child friendly resorts too.

Cortina, Italy

Despite being popular with the rich and famous for over half a century, Cortina’s slopes can be surprisingly quiet. That’s because many of those who visit this gorgeous mountain town are more interested in shopping, dining, drinking and promenading along the piazzas in fur coats and jewellery than hitting the slopes.

Head out of town to the distant pistes of Cinque Torri, or up to the high level Ra Valles area, and you’re unlikely to be rubbing shoulders with anyone much, least of all the jet set in town.
cortina.dolomiti.org

Le Pré, France

Le Pré is an “outlier” of Les Arcs, so you wouldn’t expect it to be devoid of skiers – which to be frank it isn’t. However, it’s nowhere near as busy as you might expect since most people tend to remain closer to the main resort.

Not only that, but the black run off the top of L’Aiguille Rouge (3,225m) provides an exciting and very varied journey down to Le Pré with (arguably) the longest “vert” in Europe (2,000m), some great off-piste options to the side, and a couple of nice little bars and restaurants to greet you at the end.
lesarcs.com

Leogang, Austria

Leogang is a satellite of the big Saalbach-Hinterglemm ski area, but quieter and more attractive than the main resort to the west. The slopes are also tranquil and have some of the best snow conditions in the area, although there’s not a great deal for expert skiers. Intermediates and beginners will enjoy the options however, especially as they don’t have to worry too much about other skiers careening past them.

Another big advantage of Leogang is that it tends to be cheaper than Saalbach-Hinterglemm – so that’s quiet slopes, good snow and value-for-money – what more do you need?
leogang-saalfelden.at

Monterosa Ski, Switzerland

For skiers looking to wear themselves out during the day on empty pistes and even emptier off-piste, Monterosa is a good bet – in fact ensure that you are worn out because the area’s attractive little villages have very little happening after the lifts close.

This relatively unknown corner of Switzerland is best suited to more advanced skiers looking to explore the excellent backcountry options (you can also heliski here), but if you prefer less demanding ski holidays Monterosa is still a good place to chill out and simply enjoy the superb mountain scenery.
monterosa-ski.com

ZERMATT, SWITZERLAND

ST. ANTON, AUSTRIA

ST. MORITZ, AUSTRIA

COURCHEVEL 1850, FRANCE

VERBIER, SWITZERLAND

The first ski chalet from Virgin Limited Edition will be “the most luxurious of its size in the Alps available to rent.” Sir Richard Branson has a knack for choosing the most dramatic settings on earth for his hideaways: the Caribbean’s Necker Island, the soaring foothills of Morocco’s Atlas Mountains, and now, the iconic Swiss ski resort of Verbier, celebrated as much for its world-class terrain as for its legendary après-ski. This mountain retreat opens its doors for the first time in January 2008 and will be open year-round. Just minutes from the ski lifts, The Lodge, Verbier features nine rooms and suites (plus a kids bunk room that sleeps up to 6), private pool, mini ice rink, and indoor and outdoor spa areas. The ultimate alpine escape doesn’t come cheap. Rates for exclusive use in winter range from GBP 35,250-59,000 per week for up to 18 guests. Rates in summer start from GBP 555 per person for a three night stay. You also get most meals, all drinks (Champagne too), and 24-hour driver service from Verbier.

Yellowstone Chalet, St Foy, France

When I first went skiing, chalets were so small, and ski clothes so big that my brother and I could hardly fit in the same room when we were both wearing our C&A salopettes. In fact, our matching ski suits were so bulky that, instead of taking up space in the family suitcase, Mum made us wear them on the aeroplane. It was great fun, though the chalet was never luxurious (we slept in bunk beds) and the food was always meagre, prepared by a girl who would clearly rather have been skiing by day or drinking her body weight in beer by night. Anyway, it’s all changed. I can fit my ski suit in my luggage, for one thing, and chalets are more like five-star boutique hotels. At the least that’s what the Yellowstone Chalet in Sainte Foy is like.

It’s spacious enough to take a little while to get to know your way around it, but cosy enough to pad around barefoot, thanks to under-floor heating everywhere. It’s built from local wood and stone, with huge limed wood beams, a giant-size fireplace in the sitting room, high ceilings and a balcony on three sides to admire the view over the Tarentaise Valley.

There’s also wifi access, a television room, and a gym (in case skiing all day isn’t enough exercise for you) as well as a sauna, and an open-air Jacuzzi, where you can sit at night in deliciously boiling bubbles and admire the distant lights of Les Arcs.

The bedrooms all have soft pillows and crisp linens on the beds, flat-screen TVs, and the en suite bathrooms have two basins (I don’t know why that feels so luxurious, but it does), squashy white towelling robes, a huge bath and Elemis goodies to soothe tired muscles.

There are three full-time staff and a chef. Everything is done for you, as in a luxury hotel, but you have the run of the place, and can help yourself to anything in the kitchen whenever you feel like it. On arrival, you’re offered a Kir Royale and canapes. The food is excellent; locally sourced, fresh, plentiful and varied. Breakfast is huge: porridge, warm croissants, proper coffee, bacon or a perfectly cooked boiled egg - and newspapers. Tea is homemade goodies like muffins or caramel mud cake.

Aperitifs - the bar and its well stocked cellar are always open - are served before dinner, which is superlative: perfectly pink Beef Wellington, rack of lamb with mango and mint salsa, spinach tagliatelle with Roquefort and walnut cream, then peach and cherry trifle, or Grand Marnier pancakes, and then cheese and more wine. Of course, if this doesn’t appeal, you can request different meals in advance.

There’s an excellent concierge service too, which will do everything for you apart from the actual skiing. They will pre-book your boots, skis, passes and guides, organise a helicopter transfer, a massage in your chalet, or Pilates, or reflexology, or husky rides, or ice-climbing or snowmobiling …

The little details: Speakers for your iPod are concealed within the art works on the wall. Complimentary transfers let you ski in the neighbouring resorts of Val d’Isere, Tignes, La Rosiere and Les Arcs.

OTT: Jacuzzi with in-built CD player so you can practice your singing in the bath.

The firm: Premiere Neige (0870 383 1000; yellowstonechalet.com) has nine chalets in St Foy, but the super-luxury Yellowstone operates separately.

The damage: You can book the whole chalet, sleeping up to 15, from £10,250 to £20,250 per week, or a double room from £850pp, with food and wine but not flights.
Kate Johnson

Haus Glacier, Zermatt, Switzerland

In its two French resorts, Val d’Isere and Meribel, chalet company VIP has built up a collection of traditional, cosy chalets with such comforting names as the Farmhouse and Brioche. Expanding into Switzerland, however, this small company (classier sister firm of Snowline) has forsaken rustica for smaller, apartment-style buildings located in the heart of urban Zermatt. Well, in the village centre.

Given that the new Haus Glacier was converted from a language school before the start of last season - and is bang on the main street - it feels surprisingly quiet and swish. It doesn’t have the olde Swisse charm of the nearby Chalet Gamatchi, but it is comfortable and modern, and easing the pain of the trek to hire skis or boots, it has uniquely convenient access: a lift straight from the chalet to the heart of the ski shop. It’s handy for nightlife too: the T-Bar club is only about 10m further across the street.

Haus Glacier’s massive flat-screen TV has its satellite channels tuned to news in the morning, maybe hinting that this is a chalet more aimed at the executive weekend away. VIP says all its chalets have generously proportioned living areas, high quality sound systems and an open balcony or terrace for soaking up the late-season sun.

The Zermatt chalets are in the vein of Malmaison hotels: not excessively luxurious but neatly done, minimalist and with nothing out of place. In particular, Haus Bor has eye-catching design and furniture. When I visited, we ate well, although not all the dishes were quite at restaurant level. The house wines are very decent and you can trade up.

The little details: Champagne and excellent canapes on tap. Massages, costing extra, are guaranteed available in chalet each night.

OTT: The electronically controlled, jet-cleaning and blow-drying toilet in another VIP chalet, Haus Bor. Just don’t let some joker slip off with the remote.

The firm: VIP (08701 123 119; vip-chalets.com) has a total of 19 chalets in Val d’Isere, Meribel and Zermatt.

The damage: VIP offers seven nights at Haus Glacier in Zermatt from £699 per person on a catered basis, including return BA flights from Gatwick and transfers.
Gwyn Topham

Chalet Du Cret, Val D’isere, France

So this is what it must be like to be Roman Abramovich. Guests at the Chalet du Cret enjoy Perrier Jouet champagne and U’Luvka vodka on tap, and for the duration of their stay are attended to by cool, black-clad henchmen and the odd glamorous eastern European hostess, ready to discreetly furnish such essentials as hand warmers, water and chocolate bars.

Little wonder that the company behind it, Descent International, has become a favourite with billionaires and celebrities. The identities of guests are kept strictly secret, except for when Victoria Beckham stayed at Descent’s chalet in Courchevel - the 150 paparazzi camped outside were a bit of a giveaway.

There are typically four or five staff in each chalet, including a full-time chef. Among Cret’s hosts is an ex-policeman who collects us from Geneva in a 4×4. It turns out that this isn’t the only transfer he does: we get driven the few hundred metres to the lifts in the morning, where we are presented with our skis, lift passes and sun cream, and introduced to our instructors (the best in Val, we’re assured). We can’t fail to ski well: this is tackling the mountains in much the same way as the royal family once shot tigers.

At the end of the day, as we reach the bottom of the home run, the chalet manager - think a cross between the Milk Tray man and Jeeves - is already there to pick up my skis, drive me home, and even try to unbuckle my boots. I’m too embarrassed to let him, but I guess you could get used to it.

The chalet itself puts the average stripped pine interior to shame. This building has been around for hundreds of years, and was lately converted from its most recent incarnation as an upmarket restaurant. It has got all the atmosphere a Francophile snob could want, hiding artfully installed facilities. The discreet, modern kitchen is fitted with chefs in mind (for once this is chalet food that genuinely could be described as top restaurant quality). An upstairs lounge room has the kind of solid desk and sleek computer terminal that blends in enough to not startle the holidaying guest, but still is reassuringly executive, should you suddenly feel the need to sell your stake in Gazprom.

There is art on some walls, enormous stuffed stags on others. A great log fire is always burning. The soft white Russian down duvets are so snug that one night I don’t even realise that I’ve left the balcony door open, and sleep through a snowstorm coming into my room.

Outside, we splash around in the hot tub, a few metres away from a centuries-old chapel that now comes with the property - ski wedding, anyone?

The little details: Rather than anything so infra dig as guests struggling down to the ski hire shop, the staff of Ogier Sport (Val’s best, according to Descent) come to the chalet with skis and boots that magically fit.

OTT: All who stay can enjoy a five-course meal at which every course - from soup to dessert - is accompanied by a differing vintage of Perrier Jouet champagne. Oh, champagne is used in the cooking, too. Beyond that, it’s only the limits of your imagination and offshore bank account: from little treats such as ice karting through to (literally) parachuting in a Father Christmas.

The firm: Descent has 17 chalets in resorts including Val d’Isere, Meribel, Klosters, Courchevel, Les Gets, St Moritz and Zermatt.

The damage: Descent chalets are priced for exclusive bookings only. A week at the Chalet du Cret in Val d’Isere sleeping 12 costs from £23,340-£43,465.
Gwyn Topham